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Playa del Carmen
You don't watch for potholes around here, you watch for the little roadway between them.
The once sleepy village of Playa del Carmen doubled twice in population in the last few years, mainly due to Europeans who discovered the alabaster-white beaches, gentle surf, coral reefs and slow lifestyle were the equal of the more expensive island of Cozumel just across the straits. Playa's dock is the pier for the 'people ferry' to Cozumel, so it's only a short trip over to snorkel or dive on Cozumel's incredible coral reefs.
The strong Italian (and German) influence has created a unique vagabond traveler ambiance. Numerous outrageously delicious Italian restaurants provide sustenance and several German-owned hotels raise the standards of service to exacting levels. Combine that with a relaxed Mexican-Caribbean feeling and a sprinkling of American free-spirits and you've got Playa.
It's definitely not the place to 'get away,' but it is a place to enjoy marvelous beaches by day and a lively nightlife in the evening. The mix of backpackers, archeological buffs and New Age sun worshippers makes Playa very interesting and worth some time.
Where to Stay
Small Hotels / All Inclusives / Condos
Transportation
GETTING AROUND: To get to Playa, 68 km (42 miles) south of Canc£n, take a bus from the station downtown (about 11/2 hours). If you're in the hotel zone, you could negotiate a fare with a Canc£n taxi driver to scoot you down. We did and paid only about US $10 more than the bus.
The main road into town, Av. Ju rez or Av. Principal, depending on whom you ask, leads you right to the ferry dock and the pedestrian-only 5th Avenue, running perpendicular to the beach. It boasts many of the town's hotels, stores and restaurants. The bus station is right there at Av. 5 and Ju rez and is a hub for further journeys down to Tulum, Chetumal and Belize. Most hotels are within easy walking distance from the bus and the street in front of the station is full of men on large yellow tricycles (triciclos), who will ride you and/or your luggage cheaply to your hotel in a Mexican version of a rickshaw. If your hotel isn't close or you have to go on the back streets of Playa, get a cab right there. In 1994, in response to the growing popularity of the town, the streets were torn up for sewer and water lines. Unfortunately, there wasn't enough money left to repave them. Consequently, many of the new streets look as if the American Air Force has been using them as target practice with 500 lb smart bombs. The water-filled potholes in the unpaved roads outside of the oldest part of town make traffic crawl and require zig-zagging to the max.
A stroll on the beach leads to Playa's attractive lighthouse (faro), where you can climb its exterior circular cement staircase to the top. The view is excellent and provides a great photo op.
Practicalities
The post office is three blocks back from the beach on Av. Principal, as is a pharmacy and the Centro de Salud Medical Center. The police have set up a tourist help table on 5th Ave (Av. 5) in front of the Hotel Delfin near the park plaza. You'll find Tourism information on Av. 5 near the central plaza. Several hotels rent bicycles, but get a mountain bike to dodge the water-filled cenote-like potholes and sandy streets.
There are two banks downtown on Ju rez and the Bancomer has an ATM. Reasonably priced Spanish lessons are advertised from a language school. The ferry to Cozumel has a schedule that changes constantly. If you're going over, just ask about times at any of the ticket booths scattered around the plaza. Try to get a ticket on the WJ Mexico, a fast waterjet (25 minutes). The Xel-H or Cozumele¤o takes 45 minutes.
For shopping, the stores of Playa's Av. 5 and surrounding sidestreets offer an eclectic assortment of hand-made pottery, arts and crafts both local and from all over Mexico, gifts and New Age paraphernalia.
Adventures
Most of Playa's activities involve the water - the beaches are fabulous for swimming, snorkeling, or diving. There are numerous dive shops around. Try the Tank Ha (Ha means water in Mayan) dive shop at the Maya Bric Hotel (no phone). The El Albatroz (no phone; on the beach, downtown) rents dive and snorkel equipment, as does El Oasis, on Calle 4 between Av. 5 and 10 (no phone).
Golf is available in Playacar on an 18-hole course designed by Robert Von Hagge. Beachcombers could hike north and make a whole day of it, relaxing in one or two beachside restaurants along the way. Wear a hat and much sunscreen.
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